What is an Australian Labradoodle?

The 'Labradoodle' idea of an Allergy and Asthma friendly service and assistance dog was originally a cross between a Labrador retriever and a Standard Poodle almost two decades ago. While many of the offspring showed service dog qualities producing a Labrador x Poodle progeny with both the service qualities and a non-shedding coat was not immediately a success. But the idea caught on and the result of this initial idea started the selection, crosses, back-crosses and carefully chosen breeding done by reputable breeders that has produced a wonderful allergy and asthma friendly dog with excellent health and fantastic temperament and service qualities.
Because of the Australian Labradoodles overwhelming success there can be found today more and more breeders of the 'Labradoodle'.   Just like any other breed that becomes popular there are breeders who have started breeding for the popularity of these dogs and not for the benefit of the breed itself.
When looking for an Australian Labradoodle make sure that you are able to view and will be given a WRITTEN copy of the breeder’s guarantee. Many breeders and websites claim that they guarantee their puppies but fail to follow through with any guarantee or fail to provide you with a written copy, which can lead to problems of not knowing what is or isn’t covered. Never purchase a puppy or agree to a guarantee that requires you to sign a “non-disclosure statement” for the guarantee to be in effect.  This is a very unethical policy that does nothing to provide or protect the buyer, its only benefit is to the unethical breeder requiring the “non-disclosure”, so that issues you or other buyers may have can not be discussed with any other party.
Make sure the breeder you select is health testing their breeding stock, no matter what breed of dog there is health testing that should be done to ensure the genetic soundness, as much as possible, of the puppy you are purchasing and the genetic health of the parent dogs used.
Inquire as to why they are breeding Labradoodles and make sure you feel comfortable with their knowledge of the breed, its needs, temperament, health, grooming and routine care of the breed.
You also want to ask them about their membership with a breed association.   Breed Associations require their Accredited Breeders to abide by strict codes of ethics which not only help ensure how they care for their dogs and the health of your puppy but also the business ethics under which your breeder is required to operate.  (Please see at the right of this page a copy of the ALA Code of Ethics under which Sunset Hills operates).
The first organized breed association for the Australian Labradoodle is the Australian Labradoodle Association Inc. “ALA” established in 1997. For more information about them please go to www.LAA.org.au . Sunset Hills is an Accredited Breeder of the ALA and we operate under their Code of Ethics and requirements.  
In your research of the Australian Labradoodle you will come across breeders using the terms 'Multi-Gen' (Australian Labradoodle), "Early-Gen" (Labradoodle Origin) and "Back Cross".   Here are some helpful tips to understand what a breeder means when they are using these phrases.
The multi-gen Australian Labradoodle is a dog that has had many years in its development and the selection of its foundation stock which includes 6 different parent breeds that have been used in the development of the breed as it is seen today.   The parent breeds that have verified use in the Australian Labradoodles development by the ALA (Australian Labradoodle Association Inc) are:  Poodle (all three sizes), Labrador retriever, Irish Water Spaniel, Curley Coat Retriever, American Cocker Spaniel and the English Cocker Spaniel. It is not fully known today exactly what the "percentages from the Parent Breeds" that is in the multi-gen Australian Labradoodle but the ALA is tracing the breed's history and development so that a database and history of this wonderful breed will be recorded for future generations.  What we do know for a fact is that the Multi-gen Australian Labradoodle is a unique and fantastic dog that is becoming world renown for its qualities. This did not happen overnight, multi-generation Australian labradoodles have been being bred here in Australia for over 15 years now.   The Multi-gen Australian Labradoodle on the majority has Labradoodle x Labradoodle matings done usually for several generations in their pedigree. The Australian Labradoodle has long passed the Labrador x Poodle cross and has moved on in development of a breed in its own right, it is no longer just a "Poodle Cross".    You will find that the number of breeders who breed multi-gen Australian Labradoodles are rare compared to breeders of "Early-gens".  Here in South Australian Sunset Hills is the only established breeder of the Multi-gen Australian Labradoodle.
The early-gen (Labradoodle Origin) is a dog from new bloodlines that has not had the multiple generations of Labradoodle x Labradoodle breeding nor the addition of Australian Labradoodle Foundation stock or multiple Parent Breeds.  These dogs are Labrador x Poodle matings and have more tendencies to a shedding coat as they are closer to the genetics of the Labrador Retriever's shedding coat.  The "Early-Gen" (Labradoodle Origin) plays an important part in the development of the multi-gen Australian Labradoodle and we encourage responsible breeding of quality early-gens so that breeders can integrated them into the bloodlines of the multi-gen Australian Labradoodles to ensure a broad genetic base for the breed.   If your family does not require the non-shedding coat there are some breeders who prefer to only breed the early-gen (Labradoodle Origin) for its hybrid qualities.  Currently there is only one breeder who solely breeds early-gen (Labradoodle Origin) in Australia that can be recommended.  Kate's Family Pets in New South Wales, Australia.   Sadly, today Australia is very short on breeders who breed quality and health tested early-gens (Labradoodle Origin). 
The IALA (International Australian Labradoodle Association) has initiated the term "Labradoodle Origin" for all bloodlines  with only Lab x Poodle cross parentage to help the public differentiate those breeders, dogs and bloodlines who are  "Origin Labradoodles" and the breeders, dogs and bloodlines who are "Multi-gen" or "Australian Labradoodle".    We support these terms and the use of them to help with clear indication about the differences in the two types of Labradoodles found these days.
Back Cross refers to when a Labradoodle has be bred back to one of the Parent Breeds (usually the poodle, but not restricted).  Different breeders do back crosses for different reasons, some will be doing back crosses to "correct" a coat type, or to establish a colour, or to bring in new bloodlines for their Australian Labradoodles.   Sunset Hills currently is doing some back crosses to do all three of the above.  We feel that it is important to use as little as possible back crossing.  So if a back crossing needs to be done we try to ensure that it not only corrects a coat type but that the new bloodlines added are of top quality and that the colour used is rich to enhance the colours of the Australian Labradoodle.
When looking for an Australian Labradoodle make sure you let the breeder know if you or your family suffers from dog related allergies and asthma.  This information is very important to give to your Breeder so that they are able to select a puppy that is suitable for your families needs.   Remember not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly.   This is very important to keep in mind when researching breeders for your puppy as usually only the multi-gen Labradoodle have consistent coat types that can usually be predicted for Allergy and Asthma friendliness.  It is key to remember that it is not the "look" of a coat that determines Non-Shedding vs. Shedding but the texture of the coat.  Make sure if you or your family have dog related Allergies and/or Asthma that you select a breeder who is knowledgeable and confident in selecting an allergy and asthma friendly puppy for you.
Because of the time and effort responsible breeders have put into the Australian Labradoodle they have developed into a well rounded dog with high vigor, great health, intelligence and low to non-shedding coat.   It has filled the spot that many families have been seeking for an easy to train, family oriented, allergy and asthma friendly, companion or assistance dog with an easy to maintain coat.

There are now three sizes of labradoodles available:

• Miniature 14 to 16 (not over 17) inches (or about 43-52 cm) from the wither to ground measurement. There is no correlation between height and sex in the Miniature size. Weight range tends toward 7-12 kg or (about 15-25 lbs).
• Medium 17 to 20 (not over 21) inches (or about 43-52 cm) from the wither to ground measurement. The ideal size for the female is 17-19 inches and the male is 19-20 inches. Weight range tends toward 13-20 kg or (about 30-45 lbs).
• Standard 21 to 24 (not over 25) inches (or about 53-63 cm) from the wither to ground measurement. The ideal size for the female is 21-23 inches and the male is 22-24 inches. Weight range tends toward 23-30 kg (about 50-65 lbs).

The three coat types are:

• Hair (also known as flat or slick coat, this is a shedding coat and is NOT allergy friendly)
• Fleece (also known as borderline or wavy, an allergy friendly coat)
• Wool (also known as curly, an allergy friendly coat)

NOTE: Not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly.
For pictures and more information concerning the coat types of the Australian Labradoodle please go to our Coat Types link.
For pictures and definitions of the colours of the Australian Labradoodle please go to our Colours link.
In your research of the Australian Labradoodle you will find that it is a wonderful dog that possesses:

• Good temperament
• Sound health
• Family & children oriented
• Loyal personality
• Playful & comical
• Intelligent
• Easy to train
• Low to non-shedding (allergy & asthma friendly) coat

The grooming and upkeep of a labradoodle is very important.

Ears:

Labradoodles have tendencies towards ear infections if not monitored closely.  They usually grow hair in their ear canals and they also have waxy ears so the combination can cause dirty ears and a lack of air flow that leads to infection.  The recommended maintenance for a labradoodle's ears are to purchase an ear cleaning solution from your veterinarian and use this in their ears once a week, we also suggest that you trim the hair underneath your labradoodles earflaps and also pluck the ear canal to help with air flow.  By doing this you will help to ensure that your labradoodle does not have ear infections.

Skin:

Some breeders and veterinarians believe that the ear problems that are seen in the Labradoodle today are in fact just an extension of a skin and allergy problem that the Labradoodles can display.   When we bath our Labradoodles we preventively use a shampoo product called Malaseb.  This product will kill any bacteria or fungus that may be on your dog’s skin.   Malaseb's active ingredients are chlorhexidine and miconazole.  Malaseb is an antibacterial, antifungal, antipruritic shampoo for dogs.   We highly recommend use of this product as a preventative to possible skin irritation and allergies.  Please note that we do not recommend heavy bathing.  Our dogs get one bath about every 6 months. You can actually damage your Labradoodles coat and the natural oils it contains by over bathing.

Grooming:

This is the best on grooming I have seen! (From Rainmaker Ranch) Read Here...

The Australian Labradoodle also requires varying degrees of grooming depending on their coat type.  For more information about the grooming needs please go to our Coat Types link.
This is just a quick overview of the breed and basic information, for a history on these wonderful dogs please visit the LAA's History of the Australian Labradoodle.  You will find their site under our links page.  Happy Doodling, and good luck with your research of the wonderful Australian Labradoodle.

Labradoodle Coat Types

Pictured below are the three Labradoodle coat types found in the breed. We have chosen pictures of the coats types in a similar colour range so as not to distract from the "look" of the coats themselves:

Hair: also known as flat or slick coat, this is a shedding coat and is NOT allergy friendly.

Fleece: also known as borderline or wavy, an allergy friendly coat.

Wool: also known as curly, an allergy friendly coat.

While these photos are excellent examples of the differences the three coat types have in their "look" it is key to remember that there are variations still found within the coat types themselves, it is not just the "look" of a coat that determines the coat type but most importantly the texture of the coat determines this. 
Not all breeders are experienced in selecting coat types so make sure that you find a breeder who not only knows the look but also the correct texture of the coat type you are looking for.
Below we have provided pictures of both Puppy and Adult dogs in all three coat types in a similar colour range.  We have pictured all three coat types with the same dogs for their puppy and adult photos so that you can see how the coat types have developed from puppy to adulthood.

Because the breed is still in the development stages we are still are seeing some variations within the three coat types themselves.  Some breeders are working on a "new style" wool or "loose" wool coat that is easier to maintain and not as thick as the original wool but it still has the same texture, curl and high success with being allergy and asthma friendly like the "original" wool coat.  Also your fleece coats while over all are softer than your wool coats in texture they still have some texture variation within the fleece coat type.
The Australian Labradoodle requires varying degrees of grooming depending on their coat type.  There are three main coat types (Hair/Fleece/Wool) with some variation found within the coat types noted below.
The Hair (Dog hair texture either feathering, scruffy, or wavy) is a shedding coat in varying degrees and will need a quick brushing/combing about once a month depending on the density and length of the coat. NEVER shave your hair coat's body.  A light trimming might be required with scissors but usually not.
The Normal Fleece (Soft Angora type texture wavy or loose spiraling coat) is an allergy and asthma friendly coat and will need to be brushed/combed thoroughly about every two-three weeks. This coat usually requires trimming one-two times a year.
The Micro Fine Fleece (Supper soft and fine texture in wavy or spiraling coat) is an allergy and asthma friendly coat, if kept well groomed.  Because this coat is finer and softer if it gets mats that aren’t brushed out regularly eventually some of the mats will ball up into little “tumble weeds” and come out of the coat. It is recommended to thoroughly brush/comb this coat about once a week and don’t let the coat length to get past about three inches in length with trimming two to three times a year.
The Original Wool (Dense curly coat with a lamb’s wool texture) is an allergy and asthma friendly coat with the highest rate of success of the three coat types (Hair/Fleece/Wool).  It will need to be brushed/combed thoroughly about once a week. This coat also requires trimming about three-four times a year.
The Cotton Wool (Super dense curly-straight coat with a softer texture than the original wool or loose wool coats) This coat is reminiscent of a giant cotton ball when groomed out and is so dense that it almost keeps it self standing straight up.  This coat is an allergy and asthma friendly coat with the highest rate of success of the three coat types (Hair/Fleece/Wool).  It will need to be brushed/combed thoroughly once a week.  This coat also requires trimming about four times a year.
The Loose or New Style Wool (spiraling coat that easily opens to the skin with a lamb’s wool texture) is an allergy and asthma friendly coat with the highest rate of success of the three coat types (Hair/Fleece/Wool).  It will need to be brushed/combed thoroughly about every two to three weeks.  This coat usually requires trimming two to three times a year.
All allergy and asthma friendly labradoodles have a coat change from puppy to adult usually between 10-14 months of age. Because they do not "shed out" the old coat you must groom the old dead coat out or it will cause severe matting in the new coat. During their coat change it is recommended that you groom them daily. The coat change can last anywhere from a week to several weeks. (This is usually the time when owners decide that their beautiful furry doodle needs a shorter look.)
Note: Not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly.  The Australian Labradoodle has been very successful with being allergy and asthma friendly but they are not 100% guaranteed.  They have had an extremely high success rate so far!  We do recommend that if you have the opportunity to meet one of these wonderful dogs in person that you should check to see if you have any reactions before you make your decision in purchasing your new puppy.  We recommend that any family or person who suffers from dog related allergies or asthma should look into a Wool coated labradoodle as they have the highest success rate.

Colours of the Australian Labradoodle:

These days you can find the Australian Labradoodle in a number of different and beautiful colours. We hope that you find the below colour information informative and useful. 

Colour Author 2005 ALA Registrar - Melinda Radus
NOTE: It is normal that all colours may show bleaching and discolouration over the topcoat, referred to as sunning, this is quite expected and acceptable. The Australian Labradoodle is an active dog and often a service dog that enjoys the outdoors. 

Chalk
This colour should be a white colour but when compared to white is rather a chalky white in colour. Nose pigment to be Black or Rose.

Cream
This colour should be a creamy colouring sometimes with apricot/gold tinting, all shades of cream are acceptable. Nose pigment to be Black or Rose.

Gold
This colour has also been referred to, as “apricot” should be the colour of the inside of a ripe apricot to varying shades of rich Gold in colour. A true Gold should not have a lighter root than the outer coat and preferable have an even colouration over the entire body. This colour may fade as the dog grows older. Nose pigment to be Black in colour.

Caramel
This colour ranges from a rich gold through to a deep red the preferred colour is very much the same colour as its namesake “caramel” with even colouration over the entire body. Nose pigment to be Rose in colour.

Red
This colour should be a solid even rich red in colour. A true red should not be lighter at the root than the outer coat. Reds can fade as the dog grows older. Nose pigment to be Black. [Rare colour group]

Black
This colour should be a solid black in colour and should not have sprinkling of any other colour through the coat. Nose pigment to be Black.

Blue
This colour should be a dark to medium smoky blue in colour. Blues are born Black but will have a Blue/Grey skin pigment. The blue coat colour will develop over time (1-3yrs) but as a developed adult should have an even coat colour. Nose pigment to be Blue/Grey [matching the skin pigmentation]. [Rare colour group]

Silver
This colour can range in shades from very light pewter in colour to a dark charcoal in colour, it is preferred to see an even colour through the coat but acceptable to see uneven layering of colour in the coat. Silvers are born Black with the coat colour developing over time (1-3 yrs). Nose pigment to be Black.

Chocolate
This colour should be a dark rich chocolate in colour. True chocolates are born almost black in colour and maintain the rich dark colour throughout their lifetime. Colour should be even. Nose pigment to be Rose in colour [matching the coat colour]. [Rare colour group]

Café
This colour ranges from a milk chocolate to silver-beige in colour and will develop over time (1-3yrs). Nose pigment to be Rose in colour [matching the coat colour].

Lavender
This colour has a definite smoky lavender chocolate colour giving an almost pink to lilac appearance. Lavender dogs are born chocolate and will develop over time (1-3yrs). Nose pigment to be Rose in colour [matching the coat colour]. [Rare colour group]

Parchment
This colour is a creamy beige chocolate colour reminiscent of a cup of coffee with a generous addition of milk. Parchment dogs are born milk chocolate and will develop over time (1-3yrs). From a distance adult dogs can be mistaken for a dark or smoky cream. Nose pigment to be Rose in colour. [Rare colour group]

Parti
Parti-coloured: At least fifty percent white, with spots or patches of any other acceptable solid colour. The head can be of a solid colour but white muzzle, blaze, or white muzzle/blaze combination (preferably symmetrical) are equally acceptable. Full or partial saddles are acceptable, as long as they do not exceed the colour proportion, but are not preferred. Ticking in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred. Any colour nose pigment acceptable but preferable to follow pigment requirements of the patch colour colour. [Rare colour group]

Phantom
Phantom: Solid base colour with sharply defined markings of a second colour appearing above each eye, on the sides of the muzzle, on the throat and forechest, or in a chin and forechest bowtie pattern as well as on all four legs and feet, and below the tail. A phantom without clearly defined face markings or one that presents with its whole face coloured in the second colour is acceptable, as long as it maintains all the other specified body markings. Any combination of acceptable colours is allowed. Nose pigment to follow pigment requirements of the Solid base colour. [Rare colour group]

Information provided on this page used with permission from Sunset Hills Australian Labradoodle Breeding Centre.
© 2003 Sunset Hills Australian Labradoodles. All photos are copyrighted.
Use without permission is prohibited.

Learn more about Breeding for Coat colour at VetGen

Labradoodles are a cross between the Standard Poodle and Labrador Retriever. Wally Cochran first started this cross breed in Australia in the 1970's. He was prompted to do this by a blind woman who suffered from allergies to dogs. The first mating between the Standard Poodle and Labrador Retriever was successful and produced three low allergy pups. It became readily apparent that the hybrid produced was able to surpass the best qualities of both breeds. This provoked a surge of Labradoodle breeders in Australia. But, as the first crosses continued, the results were inconsistent with some of the offspring, some being low shedding and allergy resistant while others were not. In the 1980's two research facilities ( Tegan Park and Rutland Manor) were developed in Australia to further develop successful Labradoodles. Today both are successfully exporting Labradoodles all over the world to asthma and allergy sufferers.

Labradoodles combine the best of the 2 base breeds that went onto their development.

1. Labradoodles are known to posses the gentle, sweet disposition of the retrievers combined with the intelligence and allergy friendly coats of the poodles. Labradoodles are wonderful with children and people who have special needs. They are non-aggressive, highly intelligent dogs that are extremely easy to train. They want nothing more than to please their people.
2. Labradoodles coats vary. First cross or F1 labradoodles have a very high percentage of shedding coats. Their is a well over 50% probability that they will shed. Back cross labradoodles tend to be lighter shedding because of the higher % of poodle in their genes. Multi-gen doodles tend to be the best for people with allergies or someone who is looking for a non-shedding dog. WE ONLY BREED MULTI GENERATION LABRADOODLES. Ours are labradoodles that have gone through the foundation stock breeding scheme and are now considered purebred labradoodles.
3. The Labradoodle can vary in size:

Breeding

Learn more about Breeding for Coat colour at VetGen

The rule of thumb is that if your going to interbreed the sizes (Medium x Standard) that your bitch is always the larger of the two. There is an increased risk of birthing complications when you put "too big" of a male over a small female. My personal rule of thumb is 4 inches for the larger dogs i.e. Rose is 18 add 4 = 22 inches. When you get much bigger than your bitch you can run into things like puppy skulls being very large and the bitch having problems birthing them. It isn't a 100% you'll always have trouble but it is an increased risk.

An F1 = Lab x Poodle mating (also graded as an LO1, Labradoodle Origin 1st generation) and an LO2pp is a Labradoodle Origin 2nd generation Parent Breed Poodle ("pp" = Parent Poodle) so it is an LO1 (F1) x Poodle = LO2pp

Here is a example picture of type/form that shows you a correct top line in the Australian Labradoodle. If you have a look at the chocolate boy (don't know who he is) he has a very bad top line which has a severe croup over his hind end.

When looking at basic type you want to keep in mind your top line, shoulder angle, turn of stifle, length of hock along with the other things like head shape muzzle length, ear set, tail set etc.... But most important it the structural aspect of the dog as things like tail & ears are easier to fix than lets say shoulder.

Allergy and Asthma sufferers take heart - Labradoodles may be the breed for you!

Therapeutic Benefits

For many people with disabilities, animals are an important part of life. Special skills dogs for people who are blind or deaf, of have epilepsy or a physical disability, can enhance independence, safety and community involvement. Therapeutic animals have many benefits, even companion animals can have a special place in the life of a person with a disability.

Physical contact with an animal can be very healing. It has been proven that people who are physically or emotionally isolated from others because of an inability to trust or an inability to form social relationships and those that struggle with communication are able to begin the healing process through their connection with a therapy dog. Animal assisted therapy can reduce feelings of isolation and provide a feeling of safety and unconditional acceptance.

DEPRESSION

The next time a dog comes bounding up to you for a big sloppy kiss and a belly rub don't back away. In an ongoing study a University of Missouri-Columbia researcher has found that interacting and petting animals creates a hormonal response in humans that can fight depression. It was discovered that levels of serotonin, a hormone in humans that fights depression, rises dramatically after interaction with live animals specifically dogs. The findings also indicated increases in the amounts of prolactin and oxytocin, more of those 'feel good' hormones. By showing these benefits the researchers hope to help pet-assisted therapy become a medically accepted intervention that might be prescribed to patients. For more info see:

AUTISM

Autism is a major public health problem that is the most common neurological disorder affecting children. Autism manifests itself most strikingly as impairments in formation of social relationships and communication. Conventional therapeutic interventions have little impact on the improvement of autistic behaviors. Existing literature suggests that dogs are crucial in childrens social and cognitive development. Human-animal interactions may alleviate stress in children and reduce autistic characteristics and behaviors. Animals can act as transitional objects, where bonds formed between children and animals can be transferred to humans.

Service dogs can be trained to support persons with autism to cope with their sensory and social differences. Jim Sinclair, who has trained a series of service dogs to help him with his own autistic sensory difficulties, explains the ways that dogs can help children and adults with autism.

1. Assisting them to modulate their sensory and motor behavior.
2. Dogs can help orientate their owners to their environments and may alert caregivers to any problems.
3. The social isolation of a person with autism can be overcome when there is a service dog present who attracts positive attention and thus facilitates social interaction with others.
4. A dog's natural ability to learn routines can help its owner to learn a sequence of steps in a routine activity, while its ability to recognize and accommodate changes can help a person to be more flexible with unforeseen changes

To learn more see: Ontario Adult Autism Research and Support Network

THERAPY DOG QUALITIES

Not all dogs make good therapy dogs. Determining your dogs personality will help you to identify what types of therapy activities will be best suited for him and the type of training you will need to do. Its very important that puppies receive a lot of healthy human interaction in the first weeks of life.

From birth until maturity, your dog goes through a number of developmental stages. What happens during these stages has a lasting effect on how your dog turns out, his ability to learn, his outlook on life, and his behavior. A reputable breeder will have expensive hands on contact with your puppy during the early stages of development. When you receive your puppy at about 8 weeks of age it is important that he be exposed to many different people, children as well as older people. This will help him to be confident in the presence of strangers. To learn more see: National Service Dogs Training Centre Inc.

It has long been known that the presence of a pet in a household has a profound affect on the health of its human companions. According to Healthy pets Healthy People author Dr.Stephanie Wong, "Pets decrease blood pressure, cholesterol and triglyceride levels. They reduce morbidity and mortality ralated to heart disease." What is clear is that there is a link between pet ownership and better health. Simply put, pets are not just good friends, they are good medicine.

Information provided on this page used with permission from Puppy Love Labradoodles.
© 2005 Puppy Love Labradoodles. Use without permission is prohibited.

Puppy Stages: International Doodle Owners Group

Doodle Development Periods
Information and graphs provided by International Doodle Owners Group - IDOG.Biz - copyright 2006.

Your puppy will pass through many stages as he grows and develops. Many puppy owners are shocked, surprised or downright freaked out about the way that their cute little puppy is behaving. Just check the stage of development that the little guy (or gal) is in…it explains a lot (like he isn’t crazy). Behaviors can be accounted for with these stages, but a lot of these behaviors are also not acceptable and you must train and lead the way.

The mother of your puppy will start the process by building the foundation. This responsibility will then be turned over to you. It can not be expressed enough times how important is for you to train and lead your puppy so that he will be a happy well adjusted member of your family for life.

Puppy Toddlers Period (3 - 8 Weeks)
“Mom teaches dog manners”

During the Toddler period, the doodle puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. These lessons learned in the toddler stage are CRITICAL. Puppies removed too early from their litter tend to be nervous, bark inappropriately and tend to bite simply because these lessons that are taught by the mother and littermates were missed. Training problems and long-term behavior problems can often be attributed to a puppy removed from the litter much too soon.

Beginning at 3 weeks of age:

- The first lessons learned are dog specific behavioral patterns
- They will learn the meanings of various postures and the affect it has on their mother and littermates.
- They will learn how to bite and what it is like to be bitten.
- They will learn what barking and other vocalizations mean and their different uses.
- They will learn how to establish social relationships with other dogs.

Beginning at 5 weeks of age:

- Vocalization and tempered activities (dog manners) usually are learned at approximately 5 weeks of age.
- They will learn how to be submissive to the leader of the pack.
- They will learn and refine additional postures, vocalizations and acceptable dog interaction behaviors.

Actions that the mother will take:

The mother will growl, snarl and snap to communicate. With a few very clear signals and repetitions, the young puppy will learn quickly. Soon, a mother’s glare or low growl is all that is needed to keep a young pup in line. Littermates also learn clear signals of communication to each other.

Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks) and First Fear Imprint Period (8-11 Weeks)
“Lasting impact, rapid learning”

Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical Socialization period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences. They need to be introduced to new things and begin the groundwork to a happy, well-adjusted dog.

Beginning at 7 weeks of age:

- Short attention spans.
- Things learned are permanent and will be more challenging to change.
- Puppy will be eager to learn.
- What he does and learns now, he will do as an adult.
- Puppy’s temperament and personality will become more apparent.
- Puppy will be transitioning his education from his mother to his human environment.

Beginning at 8 weeks and ending at approximately 11 weeks of age:

- Any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences can have a lasting impact if not dealt with right away.

What You Can Do:

- Gradually introduce your puppy to new things, environments and people.
- Make experiences positive (provide encouragement, treats or toys)
- Don’t push your puppy into fearful situations – take things slowly and allow him to adjust and get use to the situation.
- Do not let others push your puppy or be forceful with them.
- Provide a secure comforting demeanor.
- Teach the puppy you are there to protect and lead.

Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks)
“You’re not the boss of me!”

The puppy has been in the home now for a few weeks. He has been watching you and the family very closely. He is picking up on human behaviors and reactions. He is learning the pecking order of the pack. As he observes and learns, he will then attempt to figure out where exactly he stands in the pack order, and to also see if moving up in the pack will work. After all, he knows who the “weak links” are and will start at the bottom and try to move right up the pack. How could such a cute little pup be such a pistol?

What is happening:

- Puppy will begin to question authority.
- Puppy will attempt to move himself up in the pack order.
- Puppy will try to dominate.
- Puppy will grab leashes.
- Puppy will try to determine what activities are going to be done and when.
- Puppy may growl.
- Puppy may put his mouth on you.
- Puppy can often become over excited.

What you can do:

- Learn how your actions and body language communicate to your dog.
- Suggested reading: The Dog Listener – Author Jan Fennell
- Do not play aggressive games during this phase. (Tug or wrestling)
- If puppy becomes over excited, growls or mouths you, you stop all activity.
- Be very aware of how the puppy interacts with children – do not leave children unattended with the puppy.
- Enroll in a puppy kindergarten class to redirect some of the energy.
- Evaluate the whole family’s methods of interactions and corrections and make sure that all are consistent and clear. (Unified front concept here)

Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 Months)
“Fly like an Eagle, into the wind”

Your cute little puppy has been following you around for weeks now. He has been aware of where you are and would stay pretty close. During this period that same cute little puppy will decide that he is ready to go solo and take off running quicker than lightening. During this time, teaching the puppy that he must stay close by or come when called is critical. The failure to do this will result in a dog that will not be reliable to come or to stay close by as an adult and very well could lead the dog into a life or death situation.

What is happening:

- The puppy will become more independent.
- A puppy that previously would never go very far, will venture off.
- The Puppy will ignore commands to stay close or come.
- How you handle refusal to come or stay will affect future reliability off leash.
- Puppy will be clever in attempts to run around loose.

What you can do:

- Leash on 100% of the time when not in a confined area.
- Never allow dog loose in an unconfined area. (Yes this is redundant to the above, so it must be pretty important for us to say it twice.)
- Being off leash outside of a confined area is reserved for dogs that have been well trained.
- Enroll in training class that utilizes positive training techniques.
- Reinforce and continue to train your puppy “come”.
- Make coming a very positive experience.
- Oh… and never allow your puppy to be off leash in an unconfined area.

Adolescence Period (7 - 10 months)
“Welcome to the Teenage Years – Enjoy the Ride”

This is one of the most difficult times for pet owners. They are so surprised when their puppy turns into “devil dog” or “cujo”. This often is a time when many families start to worry that maybe they made a bad decision in getting a dog. Remember: you get what you put into it. You take the time right now to teach good habits, you will have the dog you always dreamed of for many years. This work will payoff.

What is happening:

- The puppy will become a free and independent thinker.
- The puppy will continue to review the pack order.
- The puppy will be very energetic.
- The puppy will be exuberant and enthusiastic.
- They turn into clowns with teeth.
- They will delight in learning new and fun things.

What you can do:

- Appreciate the humor of it all.
- Have you read the book The Dog Listener or watched The Dog Whisperer series yet? It will help.
- Understand that despite the behaviors it is your time to continue to train and reinforce the things you do want him to do.
- Reaffirm the family pack order.
- Be realistic about expectations (still very much a puppy in a big boy body)
- Channel all that energy into positive learning experiences.
- Continue with training classes; explore options for additional training opportunities.

Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 Months)
“Yikes! What’s up with that?”

You have a puppy that is full of beans, he runs around like a clown in search of his next show. But then, BAM, he refuses to walk down some stairs, he is shaking in the car, or he jumps at the sound of the neighbor’s music. Surprise! This is normal, but you must help your dog figure out how to deal with his fears or concerns. The skills of learning how to “shake it off and keep going” will be valuable to him for the rest of his life. It will also reduce the chances that the things he fears will not be permanently imprinted for life.

What is happening:

- The puppy that was so confident will suddenly become reluctant to new things.
- This period can be subtle.
- This period can come and go several times over this entire period.
- It may appear to be unprovoked or unrelated to any specific occurrence.
- Puppy can become frustrating to owners.

What you can do:

Avoid extremes in your response (no anger or forcing or over comforting) be calm and assertive.

- Be patient and understanding.
- Well aware of surrounding and potential triggers.
- Work on desensitizing him with gradual introductions with rewards.
- Avoid reassurance and coddling (which is a reward for this behavior)
- Don’t over react or correct the fearfulness – just make light of it and encourage him to deal with his fear (work through the fear).
- Praise with grand rewards for his attempts.
- Your dog will take his clues from you, if you act frightened or concerned he will too.

Mature Adulthood Development Period (1 - 3 Years)
“I shall protect thy kingdom!”

So the puppy is no longer an itty-bitty baby, his is pretty much fully-grown in height. He will begin to fill out a bit and develop more muscle tone. But, mentally, the dog is still working out some last details of his life and what it means to him. He IS a member of a pack and now begins to find that his turf is worthy of monitoring and protecting. Sort of sounds nice to have your dog be protective, but don’t fall for it. You do not want you dog to take over these responsibilities because in no time you too will be under the rule of the King Dog. Which can lead to aggressive behaviors, protective to the point of creating fear or actually harming someone or another animal as he protects. This is bad news, and often the reason a dog is taken out of the home or destroyed. So, don’t allow your dog to be the King of the Castle, assign him the role of court jester – he will be happier and so will your family.

What is happening:

- The dog may become more turf protective.
- Strangers may be greeted with barking.
- Barking at noises, birds, cars, butterflies, pretty much everything he believe worthy of attention.
- Playing with other dogs may escalate to fighting.
- Same sex confrontations of other dogs can occur.
- Once again, checking the pack order to see if he can move up.

What you can do:

- Reinforce how to greet strangers into your home.
- Teach your dog to ignore dogs he cannot be nice to.
- Practice or reinforce dog manners (utilizing no threatening dogs)
- Learn to read your dog and other dogs. (Circling, walking on toes, stiff tail wags, tense facial expressions are the signs of aggressive behaviors)
- Rally your family to review that the pack order is clear and every one is consistent with training and corrections.
- Reward him for good behaviors.
- Give the dog another job, therapy work, obedience classes, agility.

Information and graphs provided by International Doodle Owners Group - IDOG.Biz - copyright 2006.